Pacific Corinthian Youth Foundation Sailing Team

Always be fast

Maybe categorize this one under mental check list. Ok, so you've practiced tacks, mark roundings, starts, jibes, pretty much everything. Some things are perfected, some still need work. Now it's regatta time. Set aside working and concentrate on doing. Set your mind to simply checking in as you execute any maneuver. Go through your mental checklist and ask yourself "Am I fast, how should this tack go, control my spot on the line." The reminder is "Always be fast" if you can keep the level of concentration high and move through your mental checklist your end result will improve dramatically. Remember you're not out to beat the next guy you are out to minimize your own mistakes and optimize your own performance.

Bring a whistle

Simple, but a class rule in Opti's, wear a whistle attached to your pfd! If you are capsized, tired, or have broken equipment and need to hail someone for assistance, wave your arms above your head and blow your whistle. Help will soon follow.

Upwind Speed Mantra

The Upwind Speed Mantra: When I’m slow, I sail low.

Here are a few tips that go with the Mantra...

- Attitude: Sometimes you have to go straight and cannot tack, or clear your air, this happens on laylines, early parts of the first windward leg and sometimes when you know the correct side and just have to sail in that direction until you get there. So, your attitude is most important to recognize you may have a difficult spot, but if you concentrate on all the little things you can go fast anyway.

- Speed versus height: When sailing upwind you can point high into the wind, or you can reach away a touch and go fast (sail low). The ideal state is a balance of the two, and actually, a fast upwind sailor is bouncing back and forth between the two choices. If you are high and slow, then put your bow down (away from the wind) and ease your sail, hike a bit more and accelerate. Once your speed is excellent gradually gain height and point your bow back upwind and trim in accordingly. As this becomes a constant ying and yang you'll magically get in "the groove." The groove is when you are maximizing both speed and height, but it takes a little exaggeration of each to find that sweet spot in between.

- Sailing flat: It's all about your sail that is in the water... otherwise known as the wing under the boat… your centerboard. We all know the mainsail is the wing above the water. We also know that it creates lift away from the boat basically in a direction perpendicular to your boom. Your sail uses the wind to generate lift. Under the water you have another wing, the centerboard, but it doesn’t have any wind, it needs water moving around it. The particularly savvy among you will note that in order to have water moving around your centerboard your boat needs to be moving. The faster the boat moves forward the faster the “wind” (water) is moving across your centerboard. Voila! Lift. The centerboard begins to lift and actually scoots your boat to windward and points you further upwind. This is the secret to gaining height upwind by sailing lower and faster!!! This is also why your centerboard needs to be straight down into the water. So, when there is enough wind and you are not in drifting conditions your boat works best flat, with your centerboard deep in the water.

The Weather Mark

Make these mental notes about the weather mark:

Before the Start
Check the current at the weather mark

30 Boat Lengths Away
What will be the last wind shift or puff (left or right?)

20 Boat Lengths Away
Get a lane of clear air to approach
Decide to approach on Starboard or Port based on last shift advantage and where the crowd is developing

10 Boat Lengths Away
Stay out of the crowd, if lots of boats on starboard set up well above layline
If approaching on Port, decide early how to pick your way through the starboard tackers
Remember the current!

Final Boat Lengths
Note where the puff is and what shift is on (left or right)
Position yourself so you can jibe onto port for a right shift or begin the downwind leg on starboard in the left shift

Boat Gear and Equipment Checklist

- 24 foot mainsheet (to sail by the Lee you must have 24 feet)
- Ziplock baggie for sailing instructions
- Rudder with tape over rudder head (keeps mainsheet from snagging) and tape in tang (keeps rudder on when boat flips upside down)
- Bailer
- Painter and Paddle (ping pong is perfect)
- Sandpaper (wet/dry 600)
- Screwdriver
- Pliers
- Duct Tape
- Pocket Knife
- Soap
- Clew tie down (1 foot 3/16")

Avoid the Pitchpole

For those of you at practice last week we had a good experience with sailing downwind in LOTS of wind and with some waves. A subtle adjustment to keep your bow from burying, leading to the eventual (and dreaded) pitchpole, is to overtrim your mainsail briefly. This shifts the heeling force back some rather than forward and down over the bow, which is what drives your bow under. Obviously sitting back quickly helps as well. Try this little trim technique next time you start to turn into a submarine.

Downwind Fun

Try this... www.sail2fast.com/video/Downwind.mpg

And this... www.sail2fast.com/video/DownwindFun.wmv

Strategy Defined

Strategy is defined as you versus the race course. This means playing the wind, current, placement of marks, and position of the bulk of the fleet. Strategy is your road map to the fastest route around the course.

Thanks for this definition goes to Coach Ken Legler of the Tufts University Sailing Team.

Gybing When it's Windy

Light or heavy air the essentials are the same, the timing and intensity is subtly different. Let's talk windy jibes to start...  Begin by holding the mainsheet above the block as close to the boom as possible so when it comes time to pull the main across you have one-to-one "purchase" and the boom will travel a significant distance with your first pull. Make sure you're sailing with your board up as much as you are comfortable in the given wind. The more up the better, primarily because with little lateral resistance in the water the boat post-gybe will not trip (over the board in the water) as easily if you end up on a broad, or worse beam, reach. Initiating the gybe means a slow turn downwind or if you are already sailing dead downwind (ddw), then a slow and slight (very small) turn to leeward, mostly with bodyweight rather than with your rudder. Watch the main leach for fluttering, when you see the leach begin to collapse pull hard on the mainsheet pulling the main across. As the main swings into the boat and the wind has caught it and is pushing it to the new side, let the mainsheet slip through your hand so the main is eased out quickly onto the new side. Steer "ddw" and jump (literally leap) to the new windward side. These three motions will counteract any excessive healing force, in fact, the main will land well eased (out), the boat pointed nearly ddw, and with your weight on the windward side in the exact correct spot you'll roll the boat flat. These three forces combined will accelerate the boat forward dramatically.

Get the timing right and you will have a distinct advantage on the competition, easily gybing on windshifts and positioning yourself relative to your competitors.

The First 10 Seconds

Racing sailboats is a game of inches. Starting in the middle to left side of the starting line, the crucial moment comes when you attempt to cross the majority of starboard tackers on port. Whether you make it or are forced to duck depends on first getting a good start (in motor cycle racing they call it the hole shot). Bow out on everyone around you. But then what? Speed and pointing upwind. Crucial to concentrate with your entire being for just a few seconds as some boats tack away onto port early and others hang in there. As the fleet sorts itself out you are working as hard as you can to go fast and high. If you keep your bow in clear air, speed forward, and keep gaining height (pointing upwind) the inches you gain now will translate in to launching into the top five, or if you loose those precious few inches, getting spit unceremoniously out the back. Choose to work hard during these crucial few moments, then settle into your rhythm and enjoy the rest of the race from the front of the pack.

Where do I Start Part II?

Assuming you know which end is further upwind and is favored, now which side of the race course is your preferred choice. Maybe there is more wind on the left, maybe the wind direction is steadily  shifting toward the right (persistent shift), maybe the wind is changing back and forth (oscillating shifts)? All things to consider and determine prior to your start. Relative to the favored end of the line, these factors may have a greater impact on the end of the line that is favored. Unless it is an amazingly short course, this is probably true. If the left or right side of the course is favored then you want to position yourself at the start to make certain you can get to that side. If the shifts are oscillating, then start more in the middle away from the congestion and begin sailing the shifts and remembering your race is against the wind, not necessarily the other boats.

The Fastest Route

This one is from Dave Perry's Winning in One Designs: Your primary race is against the wind. Remember that the object of the first windward leg is not to be first at the mark. The object is to sail the shortest possible distance in the strongest wind and end up somewhere in the hunt (front).

Where do I Start?

The starting line is set, you have sailed upwind and tuned up and are ready to race. First decision, where to position yourself on the starting line. Although there are many considerations, for starters, we must determine which end of the line is "favored." Which means unless the race committee has set a perfect line perpindicular to the wind (a right angle, 90 degrees) one end will be further upwind than the other. The easy way to check is to sail along the line then head up pointing straight into the wind, as if you were going to get stuck in irons, then note which end your bow is pointing towards. This simply is the end that is furthest upwind and will give you an immediate head start if you start closer to that end relative to those boats that start further away. Still more to come making your final decision regarding where to start, but this will do the trick in a pinch.

Pre Race Psych

Interesting that preparation fits under the category of strategy, but here it is. A great help to any competitor is the knowledge that all required checklists, gear, and accessories are organized and prepared in advance of the event. One lesson I surely want to instill in us all as participants in events that are so demanding mentally and physically is the luxury of being prepared. Any little annoyance or distraction lessens our ability to perform. The simple act of being early and prepared eliminates a tremendous number of opportunities for distraction. Preparation allows the sailor to enter the competitive zone mentally easier and earlier, which translates to being attentive to the task at hand fully.

In all my days of competition and coaching I observed that the winner was almost always one of the first five competitors on the water. With a clear head and a focus on the task at hand they were able to get in the zone and stay there throughout the day, knowing full well their to do list was complete and everything on their itinerary organized. May sound uptight, but it pays off big time as one's competition scrambles to get ready while you are calm, cool and meditating on what lies ahead.

Next to Skin

Underwear
While cotton was once the mainstay of long underwear and cold-weather clothing, it is no longer recommended for strenuous or wet activities because it soaks up moisture. Damp clothes are heavier and, if next to your skin, can pose a chilling hazard.

Modern performance underwear, made from polyester or polypropylene, is most effective in moving moisture away from your skin and into outer layers of clothing where it can evaporate.

Underwear should fit snugly, without hampering movement. Make sure the shirt is long enough to tuck in. Too loose a fit may cause chafing.

In addition to traditional shirts and "long johns," many other garments including short-sleeve tops, bras, boxer shorts and briefs are now made with polyester fabrics to "wick" away chilling perspiration.

Your Sailing Bag - Things to Bring

- Hats!

- Sunglasses if you have good ones... bad ones are worse than none at all.

- Sunscreen (and zinc oxide for the ultimate protection)

- Longsleeve lightweight shirts - polypropylene, UV protection turtlenecks (L/S rashguards with UV protection are great. If you get too warm, splash a little water on for cooling)
- Fuzzy layers for warmth (fleece or heavy Under Armor)
- Dry top (Gill makes great dinghy smocks)

- Polypropylene long leggings  (Under Armor makes great leggings)
- Nylon shorts and nylon longer pants if it's cold
- Wetsuit for those really windy cold water days

- Booties (always booties for grip and protection from cuts and cold)
- Gloves
- Water, lots of water

- Lunch, food, snacks... keep it healthy, the candy and cola's taste good going down but ultimately don't provide the long-term brain energy you need.

- Duct Tape
- Pocket Knife

- A plastic bag for your sailing instructions to get taped inside your boat

- A wristwatch with stop/go countdown function

- Rule book

- Sailing Journal and Pencil
- Good luck charm

Straight Line Upwind

This is a great tip from Dave Perry's book Winning in One Designs... "When you are sailing close-hauled (upwind) and get a lift, it's usually faster to ease your sails first, then heel the boat slightly to leeward and head up. Often if it's very light and shifty, you may choose just to play the sails and not turn the boat at all. Every time you turn the rudder and the boat you lose speed and momentum." 

Two practices ago we noted that sailing into a header everyone had the tendency to heel the boat slightly to leeward. Actually a gentle tip to windward will steer the boat away from the wind slightly and get the boat in optimum trim without having to initiate the turn using the rudder. Then, when you are headed in the right direction and sailing in lighter air you can use a slight heel to leeward for your straight line trim of the boat, keeping more hull out of the water and the sails in a good position to catch what little wind there may be.

Remember the first option for changing the direction your boat is by using your body weight, next is your sail trim, and your final option is the rudder.  Imagine your rudder simply following you around the race course.

The Eyes Have It

Remember to keep your eyes moving all the time: note the heel of your boat, the trim of your mainsail, how high or low you are sailing compared to your competition, how fast you are, and check the wind and wave conditions ahead of you.

Roll Tacking

The secret is patience.  Enter the tack by heeling slightly to leeward in lighter air or simply allowing the boat to turn into the wind in heavier winds; then as the boat gains momentum into the tack and just begins to point into the wind sit "hard" to windward rolling the boat. The trick is to save yourself from capsizing and get to the new side and snap the boat upright in heavier wind and gently upright the boat in lighter winds and come out sailing the boat nearly flat, a slight ease of the mainsheet just prior to flattening will provide perfect trim through the roll. Then trim for optimum speed upwind based on the conditions at hand.

Speed in Bad Air

First of all, what is bad air?  Anytime you are sailing in disturbed wind due to another boat you are in "bad air." Upwind you have two options: 1) Tack away and find a clear "lane" to sail in; or, 2) if tacking is not a great option, you need to learn to sail fast while in bad air. The focus should be on powering up your boat, ease your sail slightly, keep optimum heel by adjusting your body weight into the boat a touch and try not to pinch into the wind too much. Concentrate on your speed and don't get stuck looking or thinking too much about the boat that is front of you giving you the bad air. Decide now whether tacking away is the correct choice, or doing a tack sailing a short distance to clear your air and tack back is the correct choice, or finally, to hang in there a little while longer until the opportunity to tack is better. Whatever you choose, stay fast while getting disturbed wind.